Driving on an unpaved road deep in the countryside, I kept checking the GPS to make sure it is the correct path when I finally found a sign,

<Guigok Sanjang>. It looks like I have come the right way after all.

As I walk up the stairs towards the building, I make an eye contract with a mannequin wearing white mourning clothes from which my heart nearly collapses. Despite having read the sign in front of Guigok Sanjang that advises not to be shocked by the dummy, it was impossible to control my own reaction. From an old building covered with vine and extraordinary sculptures sitting in the terrace to African mask and tow decorations, a dust-covered typewriter and a grandfather clock at standstill, all elements of this place are sufficient to dub it as Gapyeong’s most unusual and unique space.

40 to 50 years ago, Guigok Sanjang was a tavern on the path leading from one mountain to another. It was located in one of the most remote areas in the country where people could not use a phone or watch TV, and it was actually the only structure in the area. Because it is the oldest pension in Gapyeong, however, people who have never visited know of the name, Guigok Sanjang.

Many artists who love to drink visited this place after hearing a common saying that you do not get drunk regardless of how much you drink here thanks to clean, fresh air. Located about an hour from Seoul, the place also had regulars who would drink a bottle of makgeolli and draw an artwork while looking up to the stars in the night sky. This is one of the reasons that Guigok Sanjang features a great number of paintings and artistic pieces.

Suddenly, I was reminded of an old TV show of the same name in which a famous comedian, Lee Hong-ryul, was the main character. When I asked the owner if the show was filmed here, he revealed that the previous owner said so although there is no way to find out as it took place a long time ago.

In the past, a horror experience event, worthy of its name, was hosted but, these days, it is primarily operated as a restaurant where visitors may relax in a comfortable manner.

The most popular menu is “Spicy Chicken Stew,” or dakbokkeumtang. There are supposedly many people who keep coming back for the delicious taste of braised chicken marinated in spicy sauce and fried rice to finish the meal off. The shiitake mushroom rice with an aromatic smell and donut-shaped potato pancake are delicacies as well. Stomach seems to be full from eating the neatly prepared and well-seasoned side dishes but the movement of chopsticks do not stop, and the delicious tastes linger for a while.

As I drive out of the unpaved road in front of Guigok Sanjang, I feel as if I will certainly miss this place and the meals, just like all the others who expressed their joy and satisfaction in the guest book.

Written and photos by Kim Sun-joo

Website http://www.guigoksanjang.com/

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