Confucianism was considered as the primary ideology during the period of Joseon, and people regarded reverence towards ancestors as an essential value, which is why the 42 tombs of royal families of Joseon Dynasty have been well preserved without any damage. Joseon’s royal tombs in which the dynasty’s cultural tradition, philosophy and artistry are concentrated, were recognized of their historic value and registered as a UNESCO World Heritage.

There are total 120 royal tombs of the Joseon Dynasty, which include 42 neung’s, 14 won’s and 64 myo’s. Among them, Seooreung Royal Tombs is the second largest in size, only trailing Donggureung Royal Tomb in Guri, spanning over an area of about 550,000-pyeong. The term literally means 5 royal tombs located on the west of the capital and refer to Changleung, Igleung, Myeongleung, Gyeongneung, and Hongneung.

Though royal tombs are categorized into various forms such as Hapjangneung, Ssangneung, and Dalleung, the space where rituals are held is constituted in a more or less similar fashion. First, you pass through Hongsalmun Gate, which proclaims that the area you enter into is sacred, and go up along eoro on which kings walked for religious services. As you hike up a gradual slope leading to the tombs, you find jeongjagak where memorial services are held as well as bigak on the right, a building that has a tombstone or a memorial stone. It is prohibited to enter the tomb space beyond the area of religious services where the living and the dead meet, so you may only view from below.

At Seooreung Royal Tombs, women of royal families who had lived unfortunate lives are buried. As you enter the tombs area and walk up the path established on the right, you encounter Sugyeongwon, the tomb of Yeongbin Lee, the fourth royal concubine of King Yeongjo and the mother of Crown Prince Sado. Past Sugyeongwon, Igleung Royal Tomb, the burial ground of Queen Ingyeong, the first queen of King Sukjong, is seated on the highest location of Seooreung Royal Tombs. Queen Ingyeong passed away when she was just 20 years old without any living children. When you walk down from Ingneung and past Sunchangwon, you are greeted by Gyeongneung Royal Tomb where King Deokjong and Queen Sohye are buried. Further into the forest on the path towards Hongneung Royal Tomb, Daebinmyo Tomb appears on the left, the grave of Huibin Jang who was King Sukjong's fourth royal concubine and King Gyeongjong's mother. The burial ground and mound of Huibin Jang are shabby as if they hint at her hapless fate of death by poison. From Hongneung Royal Tomb of Queen Jeongseong and Myeongleung Royal Tomb, home of ssangneung for King Sukjong and Queen Inhyeon as well as a tomb of Queen Inwon, his third queen, to the most remotely located Changneung Royal Tomb of King Yejong and Queen Ansun, the 600-year history of Joseon Dynasty’s royal families is well preserved at Seooreung Royal Tombs.

A thickly wooded forest shelters the tombs, which makes it a good trail course as well. Many local residents purchase unlimited entry passes to visit the royal tombs whenever they want. Tickets may be purchased based on viewing time, duration of period, or number of entries.

Written and photos by Park Hee-eun

Website royaltombs.cha.go.kr

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